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Salm-On and Egg-Up

Hand-Pressed Salmon Nigiri with Tamago and Silky Egg Yolk Sauce

55 minutes
Serves 4
DinnerJapaneseNut-free
Herb's take

Sushi night, home edition: we're fusing classic salmon nigiri with a sweet, custardy tamago and a rich egg yolk emulsion. You'll learn to rice-vinegar like a pro, roll tamago with confidence, and pull off an unctuous Japanese-style sauce that would make your local omakase proud.

Equipment needed
  • rice cooker or small saucepan with lid
  • hangiri (optional)
  • tamagoyaki pan or 8-inch nonstick skillet
  • bamboo sushi mat (optional)
  • heatproof bowl
  • double boiler setup

Ingredients

Yield
4

Instructions

  1. 01
    Place the rice in a bowl and rinse under cold water, swirling gently, until the water is almost clear. Drain thoroughly.
  2. 02
    Combine rinsed rice and 2 1/2 cups water in a rice cooker or a small saucepan. Cook according to rice cooker instructions or bring to a boil, cover with a tight-fitting lid, reduce heat to low, and cook for 18 minutes. Remove from heat and let steam, covered, for 10 more minutes.
  3. 03
    While the rice cooks, make sushi vinegar: mix rice vinegar, 2 tbsp sugar, and 1 1/2 tsp kosher salt in a small saucepan over low heat, stirring just until dissolved. Cool to room temperature.
  4. 04
    Turn the hot rice into a wide, shallow bowl (ideally a hangiri, if you have one) and drizzle evenly with the vinegar mixture. Use a rice paddle or wooden spoon to gently fold and fan the rice until room temperature and glossy.
  5. 05
    For the tamago, whisk 4 eggs, mirin, soy sauce, 1 tbsp sugar, and 1/2 tsp kosher salt in a bowl until well combined and slightly frothy.
  6. 06
    Heat a nonstick tamagoyaki pan (or 8-inch skillet) over medium-low and brush with a thin film of vegetable oil.
  7. 07
    Pour in about one-quarter of the egg mixture, swirling to coat. Once just set but still slightly wet on top, carefully roll the layer toward you using chopsticks or a spatula. Push the roll back to the far side of the pan, re-oil as needed, and repeat with the remaining egg mixture, layering and rolling until you have a multilayered omelet. Transfer to a bamboo sushi mat, shape into a rectangle, and let cool.
  8. 08
    When cool, cut tamago into 1/2-inch thick slices, each about the same size as the salmon slices you’ll prepare.
  9. 09
    Slice the salmon against the grain into 8 thin, even slices, about 2 1/2 inches long and 3/4 inch wide. Keep chilled until assembly.
  10. 10
    For the egg yolk sauce, melt butter in a small saucepan over medium-low heat. In a heatproof bowl, whisk together the 2 remaining egg yolks, lemon juice, and a pinch of salt.
  11. 11
    Place the bowl over gently simmering water (double boiler method) and whisk constantly while slowly drizzling in the melted butter until the sauce is thickened and airy, about 2-3 minutes. Remove from heat immediately.
  12. 12
    To assemble, wet your hands with water and a touch of vinegar. Take about 2 tablespoons of sushi rice and form into an oblong mound, gently pressing but not smashing.
  13. 13
    Top half the rice mounds with a slice of salmon, the other half with a slice of tamago. Arrange on a serving platter.
  14. 14
    Drizzle each nigiri with a little egg yolk sauce, or serve it alongside for dipping. Garnish with a tiny pinch of extra lemon zest or a dot of soy if you’re feeling fancy.
  15. 15
    Serve immediately and revel in your sushi bar skills.

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